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Description:
Emmerich Knoll III, an exhuberent spokesperson for the Wachau region, farms the family’s 15 hectares of land and crafts wines that clearly express the Unterloiben terroir where some of Austria’s most famous vineyards live. This family run winery is a treasure that has been estate owned and operated for over three generations. The majority of the Knoll’s vineyard plantings are dedicated to Gruner Veltliner and Riesling, but the family also farms small amounts of Rivaner, Gelber Traminer, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. A member of “Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus,” an association of Wachau winemakers who follow strict quality control rules, the Knoll Winery upholds stringent farming and winemaking standards that vintage after vintage propel their wines to the top of restaurant, collector and critic’s lists. Knoll wines are easily recognized by their distinct label that depicts an ornate image of St. Urban the patron saint of winemakers and vineyards. While in the Wachau, one can also dine at the family’s acclaimed, 400 year old restaurant, Loibnerhof Familie Knoll.
"Smaragd" is a definition for the best and most valuable wines of the Wachau, it was first used for the vintage of the year 1986. These wines with a minimum must weight of 18.2°KMW and alcoholic content of 12.5% mature only in the most sunniest regions and even there only in very good years. (KMW stands for "Klosterneuburger Mostwaage" and is a unit to define the amount of natural sugar in wine must.) In accordance to tradition they are fermented until the natural end of the process and then, filled into bottles, are closed with long (at least 49mm) corks which carry the vintage date. Even after 25 or more years of proper storage one wil have much enjoyment drinking them. Wines of the type “Smaragd” must not be sold before the 1st of May following the year of the harvest. This category characterises an extraordinary specialty of Wachau's winegrowing area and is object to strict quality checks. Schutt is the vineyard.
Knolls’ 2010 Gelber Muskateller Smaragd is not to be missed. A riot of floral perfume – orange blossom, elder, sage flower – soars from the glass; then joins fresh orange and apricot on a voluminous yet athletically and almost electrically-charged palate, with pungent lemon zest, white pepper, sage leaf, and peppermint leaving a slightly bitter but palate-staining and invigorating mark. I would plan on drinking this formidable offering within 2-3 years, lest its bitterness get the better of it. - Wine Advocate |
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